This cotton suit fromLuca Museoyou’ve had a few ups and downs, and even now i don’t think it’s right.
The first suit the Korean tailors made for me, I was coveredhereit fit well and had an interesting style, it was bigger in the body than anything I had before. I’ve come to love it, while also feeling that it’s not my main style.
The guys said they could do something smaller and have less space, so we decided to try that last year. They certainly reduce drape and fullness, but they take you very little. The shoulders stayed wide enough – as wide as any other tailor I’ve used – but the body was incredibly close.
We also had one thing, so I would cover him in a suit then, especially since it was the tail end of summer. It was August 2025, and we shot it in Zurich at the beginning of September (below), while we were in town.student event with Trunk.
Most of the fit wasn’t bad at all – difficult things like balance and collar fit were tight. All along, Luca Museo’s team has been good at this, similar to other Korean tailors such as Assisi.againB&Tailor.
But style wise the suit was an odd combination, and the trousers were also too small for comfort.
We arranged another fund in January this year, at Pitti, and I got the suit a few months later. While the jacket was improved, the pants weren’t – very loose at the hem, but still tight on the fork and seat. I had to fix them in place before they were worn.
My impression of the suit was that it would be an updateone Elia CaliendoI did it 10 years ago, and sadly it doesn’t fit anymore (above). Those lightweight cottons make wonderful summer suits, especially in earthy colors, and are a great alternative to classic linen.
Although the style of the Luca Museo will be slightly different than the soft, rounded cut of the Neapolitan Caliendo, I was hoping that the extended shoulder would add elegance without sacrificing a lightweight feel. A bit like a Roman suit, perhaps, with a light fit for the heat but a little classicism in the silhouette.
I think I was right that this would be a good style, but the Luca Museo suit still felt like an unusual combination of cuts, and while I would wear it, I think it was a mistake to try to get the tailor to change their usual style.
This is definitely a mistake I made in the past and I even wrote about trying to strengthen myself at home – ‘Let the tailor cut his style‘ – but here I wasn’t asking for anything tight, a slightly smaller fit than an obviously oversized suit.
As with most things with a bespoke commission, the problem probably comes down to communication, and having a suit made in a style you can see around you – hanging, from the tailors themselves – is one form of communication: you see the style of the suit, you make it your own in the materials you choose.
Verbal communication becomes very important if you want to deviate from this, and here it was not. The language skills of the Luca Museo team are not bad, but they are not perfect, and communication is not only about language but the willingness to ask questions, to complicate the situation by double-checking things.
Regular communication is not something the team has played well, for example not letting them know when the suit will be ready, or when they will be visiting. This is not helped by the fact that they are represented by Hong Kong shop Coller, and it is not always clear who is in charge.(I asked for clarification on this and there are details at the end.)
If Luca Museo’s style works for you, and you can’t stand ready, consistent access, then they’re always a good choice. They are reasonably priced and like I said, they are technically sound.
My colleague Manish had itoversized suit made for him (above)which is certainly agreeable to him, and he is making another presently. He closed his first suit (compared it to mine)here.
But otherwise I would proceed with caution. I told all this to the Coller team, of course, as we always do – no desire to gazump anyone – and it seems they heard.
More than anything else, I hope we can help aspiring tailors find the most effective way to succeed in the long term, because that’s how successful businesses are built. When bespoke works well, it is a very profitable and beautiful way to buy clothes. But it is not an easy business to establish.
Bespoke cotton suit from Korean tailor Luca Museo, via Hong Kong store Coller. Fabric: Holland & Sherry 9oz cotton,276009.The price is $3800.
Coller founder Jaden Chan is also the international director of Luca Museo, which can be confusing. Coller is based in Hong Kong and has its own sewing lines, which are produced in Hong Kong, Korea and Japan. Luca Museo offers the Korean portion of that product. Sewing the collar is divided into Red and Black lines, while the red is in-house and the black is made directly by artisans in those countries.
Other clothes in the main clothes:
- D’Avino white linen shirt
- Vintage tan leather belt
- PS boat shoes
- Ichizawa Hanpu tote, via Trunk
- EB Meyrowitz sunglasses