By Nico Lazaro (above).
At first glance, cowboy boots seem out of place in the classic men’s wardrobe. They are bold, regional and carry a strong cultural identity – one that can feel unfamiliar, especially to students outside of the American Southwest.
But underneath, cowboy boots share many of the qualities that define the clothing we often celebrate: reliable construction, historical purpose and a slow, thoughtful aesthetic that accompanies the wear.
Like penny loafers, khakis or denim, cowboy boots have become a distinctive and timeless American garment. And although they may not have all the space of English benchmade shoes or Italian loafers, they offer something different: a grounded and democratic beauty, especially when written with care and restraint.
I believe, and will try to make the case, that cowboy boots – if chosen thoughtfully – can blend seamlessly into a modern wardrobe, regardless of geography. Not as a novelty or costume, but as a serious and lasting piece of art.
Design and purpose
Originally designed for the horse, cowboy boots were developed for performance: the high shaft protected the legs from the brush, while the angled heel helped protect the foot from the stirrup. Decorative details – contrasting textures, inlays, ‘toe bug’ – emerged from the strengthening of performance and became bold illustrations.
The toe bug, or flower of the toe (above), is another perennial. Among aficionados, the most famous version is called Ray Jones, a mid-century maker whose sewing pattern was immediately recognizable – a type of logo or signature that collectors loved because of its personality.
What is remarkable is how much the basic design of the boots has changed. Most today fall into two camps: the traditional Western shoe, with its high heel and pointed shape; and the roper boot, designed for on-the-ground rodeo work, with a low heel and forgiving profile.
The latter is generally easier to wear, especially for those new to the style, as it behaves like a Chelsea boot and can disappear into a well-cut pair of trousers. (See Simon’s pairing here.)
He’s wearing cowboy boots today
The challenge isn’t finding a pair, but figuring out how to wear it without looking like you’re wearing a costume.
When I first tried on cowboy boots with a full suit, I thought it would be easy – the fit of the suit would offset the stiffness of the boots. It didn’t work. The ratings felt off. The power was wrong.
What finally clicked was that all the cultural icons I loved – young Dylan, Springsteen, Redford, Ralph Lauren, Kevin Bacon in the 1990s, even Anthony Bourdain – wore boots casually, with worn denim or loose tailoring in a muted color palette.
John Mayer in Visvim ropers with jeans and a tee, and Austin Butler in a work coat and vintage Levi’s, were modern icons that confirmed this. I just needed to bring them down to earth.
These days, I wear Tecovas Johnny boots in honey-suede with 1950s US Army chinos or my High Slim straight leg jeans from There, usually with a Buck Mason Toughknit tee (above). My Gardian boots from La Botte Gardiane (waxed crust roughout roper) are perfect for everyday with sport coats and denim, where a real cowboy boot might push the look too far.
My go-to layers are military jackets, essential coats, denim jackets or lightly structured sport coats with prints and silhouettes that resemble the rugged aesthetic of a cowboy boot.
William Yan of No Man Walks Alone had a similar transition. “If you had told me 10 years ago that I would be wearing cowboy boots, I would have laughed,” he told me. But now they exchange every day. Her entry point was suede ropers from Wythe: “The round toe and low heel make them feel like a typical desert boot or Chelsea.”
From there, he graduated to Western snuff-suede. “At first, the heel took some getting used to, but now it’s like second nature.” He accessorizes them with pearl snaps, ribbed tanks and denim – 501s, 517s, Wranglers and five-pocket straps. “You want the leg opening to be wide enough to go through the shaft. If it’s too tight and you see the print, that’s not a good look.”
Ethan Wong (above) takes a more conceptual approach. “If you’re wearing American pieces — sawtooth shirts, trench coats, leather jackets — cowboy boots are like the last word,” he said. “They confirm the theme.”
Ethan usually wears boots, but only when there is a Western or workwear anchor: a denim shirt, a machine-made tie or casual trousers. “It’s no longer ‘Western menswear’. It’s Western tailoring.”
That’s the trick, as hat maker Cody Wellema of Altadena, California (below) demonstrates. Boots should confirm the impression of the outfit, not challenge. When the pieces already speak the same language – earthy colors, strong fabrics, relaxed proportions – the boots feel like they fit.
They don’t even make art
Unlike many other footwear traditions, cowboy boots remain handcrafted in small workshops throughout Texas, Oklahoma, Mexico and beyond. Although several factories have developed, many makers still make all pairs by hand.
Zephan Parker’s Parker Boot Company division is one of those. Designed at the same time, the brand promises lifetime maintenance and repair on every custom pair. “We want them to last every mile of wear,” Zephan told me.
Graham Ebner, an Austin-based manufacturer, considers his boots to be “the translation of cowboy boots into today’s language – more Bourdain than Tom Mix”. He works one-on-one with customers to understand how they will wear the boots.
“If you work on the court every day, maybe that means kangaroo leather and high traction, so there’s nothing to show when you’re sitting down. Or maybe we do the opposite – something special that’s hidden on the bottom, only visible when you’re sitting down.”
Graham’s priorities are design and construction: “I want the boot to look good, but also function well. If the straps break after a year or the gauge is off, what’s the point?”
She added that while there are fewer traditional makers each year, the next generation is strong: independent bootmakers across the US — many women, in particular — continue the craft with new ideas and incredible skill. Here’s someone he recommends watching out for:
A place in the wardrobe
I will admit that cowboy boots are not for everyone. They ask for confidence, and sometimes a little humility. But for those who are attracted to clothes with cultural weight and integrity, they can be a surprisingly satisfying addition.
In Texas and other parts of the West, it is common to have two pairs—one for farm work, one for dinner. In my closet, my La Botte Gardiane and Tecovas boots are everywhere, although I tend to leave the boots on completely if needed. When I want character, stance and presence, I reach for cowboy boots.
To me, they are a functional heirloom piece that, in the right condition, would stand proudly next to any Northampton brogue or Neapolitan loafer. All it takes is confidence, a good pair of pants and a willingness to stand still.
WHERE TO BUY COWBOY BOOTS
Here are the trusted names in every category:
Entry level and ready to wear
- Tecovas(Austin, Texas/León, Mexico): Clean design, great price point, perfect for beginners. Timex cowboy boots, designed in Austin and made in León.
- Wythe(New York/León, Mexico): Trusted vintage-inspired silhouettes at affordable prices. It’s a great gateway option with plenty of dressing options to go with it.
- Lucchese(El Paso, Texas): The Heritage Line is refined and quality driven. A household name for good reason.
- Anderson Bean(Mercedes, Texas): Known for bold, functional boots with real flair.
- Chisos(Austin, Texas): Excellent build quality and comfort. It’s a step away from many direct-to-consumer products.
- Zerrows, Clinch, Rolling Dub Trio(Japan): Zerrows offers a sweet rendition of the now defunct Red Wing Pecos – a roper-style work boot; Clinch offers their simplified cowboy boot; and Rolling Dub Trio’s Loro is somewhere in the middle of the modern side option available.
Made to order and customized
- Rios from Mercedes(Texas): RTW manufacturer with a deep archive of leather and patterns, and a reliable MTO program.
- Zephan Parker(Houston, Texas): The MTO line from Parker Boot Company offers clean, classic styles completely handcrafted.
- Houston Boot Company(Nevada/León, Mexico): Custom options with a limited selection of RTW made in León, with great quality for the price.
Bespoke
- Parker Boot Company(Houston, Texas): Fully serviced with lifetime service and refined, minimalist designs. (Below.)
- Graham Ebner(Austin, Texas): Beautiful boots with a sharp hand and a keen eye for fit and fit.
- Texas traditions / Lee Miller(Austin, Texas): Legendary boots, renowned for traditional craftsmanship.
- Lisa Sorrell(Oklahoma): Sculpted, highly detailed boots made with creative vision and incredible craftsmanship.
Nico Lazaro is a writer based in Los Angeles. He is @nickelcobalt on Instagram