The shoe will be available to try on in all sizes at the London pop-up, starting tomorrow. All details on thathere.
A few years ago, in an article aboutRiviera style appealIn the summer, we wrote about the need for a soft yet stylish shoe that can go with everything from fitted linen pants to shorts.
A category tested by many brands, but they can be very smart (e.g. Belgians) or chunky (e.g. standard boat shoes) to cover all these things. It’s something we mentioned to Joseph Pollard – former head of design at RRL who now runs shoe brand August Special – and that started a conversation about doing something together.
To fit the brief, the shoe had to be soft enough to be worn without socks – to slip into the back door of the summerhouse – but also stylish enough to be worn with our favorite bespoke tailors.
It can be lined, in flexible veg-tanned leather, but designed to look slimmer on the feet and made to a high quality, with good texture and construction. The inspiration came from traditional boat shoes, but also a kind of low, laid-back shoe that Ralph Lauren did very well in the nineties (below) and I have worn classic versions of.
The good thing about those shoes was that they were unusual in their design (leather lacing, hand-stitched sole) but the low vamp and low height ended up being nice too.
For our summer version, we took that idea and some old boat shoes I had, toocreated a new, custom finish that emphasizes comfort in areas like width at the joints, but uses features like the apron shape to push a more refined style.
Looking at the shoe below, it’s interesting to compare the shape of the apron (that ‘U’ stitch in the front) to the overall width of the shoe. It’s the insole that catches the eye and makes the shoe look taller, but the shoe itself is actually wider and more comfortable.
During the design iteration with the shoemaker in Italy, Joseph helped us push that shape of the apron, to make it thinner and longer, moving its point to the end of the toe. It wasn’t a typical design but it helped a lot to drive the overall look.
The other features we worked on consistently were creating a bigger heel cup – wider and roomier but not bigger on top – and lowering the toe spring to give it a really flat, laid-back feel.
“A lot of the shoe’s dynamism comes from these decisions,” Joseph told me. “Trainers look forward, for example, to give the impression of speed. In contrast, I like that this shoe feels low and still, like it’s not in a hurry to get anywhere.”
So, the shoe is an unlined loafer in veg-tanned leather, made in moccasin style with self-tying leather straps. The vamp and counter are hand stitched, and there is a Maine-style guide stitch as an additional design detail.
We used a small, family-owned shoemaker in Italy that Joseph has worked with in the past, and he actually used to make some of the Ralph Lauren shoes that we were inspired by.
They’re made to a higher standard than most similar shoes you see outside of Italy, with finer finishes, more stitching per inch, and details like a rounded hem at the waist.
The sole is blake-stitched, which for me is the best for this type of lightweight summer shoe. They can be solved easily because of that, at least two or three times.
The leather is intentionally left with a minimal finish, so it will age quickly and beautifully. Shoes will get scuffs and marks noticeably, but these are soft and part patina, making it feel like an old favorite.
Interestingly, rubbing the inside of the shoe can also cause the leather to darken slightly from the friction, but this wears off. You can also use a waterproof spray if you are going to wear them in the rain; in general, a clear shoe cream or tan will be helpful every few months.
Style-wise, we find the shoes can be worn with everything from jeans to dresses. During our recent trip to LA myself, Lucas and Manish all wore shoes, and you can see a variety of outfits in the photos in this article.
Above, Lucas wears them in a smart dress with white jeans and a navy cotton sweater (our handmade model). Above, Manish is wearing a linen suit (Art du Lin from The Anthology) and a white linen shirt, so it’s a great summer look.
I’m also wearing blue jeans, but both have a casual look on top (an untucked chambray shirt, below) and a smart one (a blended linen jacket, more so above). I wore them, myself, with shorts too.
Fit
I know the first question students will have is about measurement. We’ve tried to break this down as fully as possible below, using all three as examples, as we all have slightly different foot shapes.
General advice:
- The shoes are listed in US sizes, just like the other August Special shoes
- Usually US sizes are half or a full size above UK sizes. These are usually half a size, so a UK 9 or EU 43 is equivalent to a US 9.5
- The shape is fairly small, it’s the width of an E, but the non-woven construction means they mold easily and can stretch for a larger fit.
- The laces are functional and can be used to slightly tighten the top line of the shoe. We wouldn’t recommend doing so more than a centimeter, but it does make a difference. If the cords look a little long they can be cut shorter
Our size:
- Simon is a size 9E in Edward Green and Crockett & Jones, a 43 in European brands, and a 9.5D in Alden. He has a small, long foot and often struggles to get the shoes to fit the toes but hold the heel in the back.
- In this shoe you take a 9.5. Considered a 9 as the heel held better, but tightening the straps made a difference and the 9.5 was the right choice.
- Manish has a wide foot so it is usually between 8.5 and 9 depending on the width. He wore the 9.5D in Alden’s Aberdeen final and the 9E in their Van final. He wears a 9 in Edward Green and his August Special Augie shoes are a US 10.
- In boat shoes, she also looked for a 10 but had a slippery heel, so a 9.5 was best for her.
- Lucas is 10.5E on Edward Green, 45 on most EU brands, 11 on Barrie/Trubalance and 11.5 on Aberdeen and finally Alden.
- She usually takes an 11.5 from the August Special but she took an 11 for these, as she planned to wear them mainly without socks and found that the 11 gave her a heel grip which was the best for her, with room still in the front.
Taking care of
- The boat shoe is made of soft calf leather with only a light wax. It is intended to age significantly and quickly, creating a personal patina
- If there is a chance to wear it in the rain, a waterproof spray like Saphir Super Invulner is recommended
- Shoe cream will be useful in the long run to maintain the leather. Maybe once or twice a year depending on usage
- The use of shoe trees will keep the shoe looking smart, if that’s what you want. The group was not using them
- The shoe is blake stitched so the sole can be replaced at most shoe repair shops. If done carefully, this can be done two or three times
Product details
- A boat shoe made in Italy with a hand-stitched apron and counter
- Italian vegetable-tanned calfskin
- Blake stitched leather sole
- Unloaded, but loaded with leather socks
- Functional leather moccasin style laces
- Made in collaboration with US brand August Special
- Available only onShop.PermanentStyle.com
NOTE: If you are trying on shoes at home, please do so on a carpeted floor. Shoes with scuffed soles cannot be accepted for return or exchange