Written by Manish Puri.
Next week, for the first time, we welcome Shanghai-based brand Ficus to the PS showroom on Harley Street.
Founded in 2016, Ficus draws inspiration from the ancient styles of Western menswear, but often presents itself with an Eastern sensibility.Simon and I had the opportunity to meet the founders of the brand and try on one of their winter collections at Pitti’s January show; that was a particularly interesting choice and Simon and I both took their ‘Altai’ waterproof down jacket.
Since Ficus is only available online outside of China, I suspect there will be many who won’t have much exposure to the product. And wwhile the upcoming trunk show will give Londoners the chance to try on their spring/summer collection in person before ordering online – with all trunk show orders benefiting from free shipping – I personally find it useful to know a little about the products beforehand, just to orient myself to the world of the product before arriving.
With that in mind, we thought readers would enjoy a brief overview of some of my picks for the current season.
At the trunk show there will be a range of warm weather options that can complement casual wear: a pleated singlet (£193), a lightweight western shirt (£223) and a button down vest (£404).
The materials are perfect for peak summer – light cotton, seersucker and lots of French linen – and are usually pre-washed for a soft feel.
Ficus has a good eye for color too. The rust red popover shirt (above, £223) and their baby blue corduroy shirt (£297) bring a pop of color without feeling too domineering or edgy.
However, of all Ficus clothing categories, it is their outerwear and accessories that catch my eye: their offering runs the gamut from reliable products of basic pieces to more design, but wearable, repeatable.
I’ve highlighted three of my favorites below – all paired with the same simple white tea dress and washed chinos (the original from PS and the Big Chino from Buck Mason).
In the basics camp is Ficus’ version of the boring jacket: the Five-Pocket ‘Writing’ Jacket, made from 12oz washed ecru denim.
We’ve written extensively about key coats on PS, so I sympathize with any readers who find it difficult to choose between the many options on the market. For those people I would like to advise to focus on whatever details are most important to you – price, color, material, style, brand – rather than endlessly searching for ‘the best’.
Features of the ‘Author’ jacket worth noting are the patch-flap pocket on the chest (which provides extra protection for any valuables stored inside); a contrasting corduroy color (which helps the collar feel softer against the face and adds texture to prevent the jacket from feeling too tight); adjustable cuffs (for those with small wrists or who prefer a snugger cuff); and washed denim (which doesn’t have the ‘break-in’ time usually required for tougher workwear versions).
The size I’m wearing here is a 48, which – even though I’m 50 – is a good fit for single-layer, summer dresses. On that basis, even though your regular size is probably not a good fit, I would advise most readers to go smaller (something I rarely recommend).
At £299, the ‘Author’ jacket represents excellent value, at a time when other brands are asking around the £500 mark for the job.
It’s an intimate piece, and one that effectively demonstrates Ficus’ desire to create a dialogue between Eastern and Western styles.it’s the Shanghai jacket (£560) – complete with mandarin collar and frog buttons.
At first glance, I thought the fabric was cotton denim. However, Ficus told me that it is actually made from French linen that is woven into denim before being stonewashed to give it its worn, blue and gray look.
So, while the jacket looks like it might be heavy, it actually sits very lightly on the body. Similarly, although it is the same size (48) and broadly cut in the same way as the cotton denim ‘Writer’ jacket, linen denim makes it very comfortable to be worn as both an outer layer and on the skin as a change of shirt/top shirt.
This jacket is one of my favorites from the current collection, but I can fully appreciate that it won’t be for everyone, not because of cultural sensitivities.I spoke to the brand about this and while they acknowledged the concern, they added: “Chinese clothing has been evolving, adapting and reinterpreting throughout time. We don’t see considerate and respectful dressing as merit in itself. Rather, we see it as a means of cultural appreciation and communication.”
If I may speak directly to appreciation and communication, I (in spite of myself) know little about the history of Shanghai, and I did not appreciate that the city had a French Concession for almost a century between 1849 and 1943. There is no doubt that history informs the “exchange, adaptation and reinterpretation” of the ideas that underpin this outfit – apparently.combines Chinese culture with French workwear style.
As always, the PS reader is more than capable of deciding what is best for them, but I know that my cultural horizons have been broadened just a touch by learning more about the history that fills this piece.
The last item I really like is the Paracel jacket, a design inspired by old fishing jackets with a name borrowed from the Paracel Islands – a fishing region in the South China Sea.
The cut is cropped and boxy – a silhouette that can fit seamlessly into a PS donorThis is Alex Natt’s placewardrobe. The sleeve (and this seems to be true of most Ficus outerwear and jackets) is full at the armhole and bicep, but wraps nicely around the wrist. The result is a comfortable fit with plenty of range of motion – great, I’m sure, if you wanted to fish in it – without being too sloppy or fumbling with your hands.
The visual impact of the jacket is enhanced by two acid-orange zip pockets that can be fastened to the sleeves. Similar to the Stone Island episodes, I would imagine this detail is a design step too far for PS readers. However, again like Stone Island, if you don’t like pockets you can simply unzip them and secure them inside the waist pockets – which is probably a great way to organize small items that would otherwise get lost inside the tardis-esque.
The fabric, a waterproof nylon in a rich forest green, is finished with brown faux-suede trim. While I like the contrast the latter offers, my only reservation is that the faux-suede can feel cheap, and I wonder if the snuff corduroy trim might make this jacket stand out.
Helpfully I don’t have to wonder too long as this is one of the few things Ficus offers inn MTO base with option to customize fabric and trim. This service normally carries a 15% charge, but during the PS trunk show Ficus will be waiving that charge, so the jacket will be available for £560.
Full details of the trunk show are in the flyer below, and I hope to see some of you there next week.
Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram