UP Johnson opened a new store on Old Burlington Street in London recently, and it’s a very cool place. I would even go so far as to say that it brings a touch of sex to this part of the city that usually has strict rules.
Wait a minute – I hear you say – that sounds like the kind of thing you’d hear in a typical fashion magazine. Why do I care if the place is cool or not?
Well, because many brands that have a vision for clothing design also have a vision for store design. These two tend to show something about each other, or it’s a lack of design – a focus on simple functionality.
In P Johnson’s case, the top photo of their new fitting room says it all: plush velvet walls, leopard print carpet, gold drapes. This is meant to be a little indulgence, little by littlepleasure.
I asked Patrick Johnson if he thinks the vibe has changed much since we started covering it in 2017:
“Amazingly. I think we’ve matured now, and the brand feels more settled and confident. Comfort and ease are at the center of what we do, and I think that often comes across as the most exciting. There will always be a core of classicism and art in what we offer, but I think we’ve evolved to let things breathe a little.”
The beauty of the space is reflected in the clothes, so thank you my point holds. Not that they include velvet or zebra skin, but there is an accumulation of materials such as silk, and a lot of dark, tonal color.
The shirt above, for example, is made from 65/35 cotton/silk – a good ratio to get the feel of silk without its heaviness or softness. It feels light and silky on the skin, a true evening vibe that most brands we cover don’t do much.
It also has a gray/green color that feels very Armani – there are many colors of this color in the store: greige, olive, dark navy check and brown (below).
(Perhaps it would be fair to say that it feels late 80s/90s rather than just Armani, or some of the PJ style seems inspired by Armani, like the first model shown below.)
Another unusual shirt item PJ has is a pure silk oxford, which is very heavy but the unusual use of an oxford weave gives it body (above).
The things available for sewing are also interesting – and I know this area will be especiallyinterest in students.
Many seamstresses use the same fabric books as others, while others make specials, keep old bolts, or buy rolls of fabric to give something different. Savile Row tailors such as Huntsman or A&S often do small custom selections; The Anglo-Italians formed their own complete collections; Anthology buys one or two specials, likethread I used recently.
UP Johnson has unusual and special fabrics in this,including the silk/wool blend shown below. This is from Serica and Cuomo andit has a matte finish not unlike the famous Art du Lin of Solbiati. (MTM starts at £880 for a half canvas and £1030 for a full canvas – but these more expensive fabrics push the price up – to £1470 and £1620 for this wool/silk.)
While I loved the color and materials of many of the PJ shirts, many of the styles didn’t work for me. The collars were too small to work under my stitching, or the collars were a little blousy (some more than others).
However, most shirts are available made to measure, and in fact some are only available that way (one reason you don’t see some of them online).
This is the second big thing I can highlightabout P Johnson. Having the custom available really opens up the offering – it means those fabrics are available to a much wider audience, both in terms of style and body shape.
The company has been operating in this way for some time, and when it started in London there was little in sight or stock.The variety of clothes is much larger now, however, and most people walking into the store would not think that many of them were available through MTM. There is a tailoring area in the back with a variety of fabrics, but in any other store like this, some of the clothes on display will be ready to wear.
The culture is also inexpensive and wide in scope.For example, that olive silk shirt I mentioned about the cost£285we are done again£290custom. The maximum height between the shirts is £25.
The custom version would allow me to change simple measurements (waist, length, sleeve), change design areas like pockets, and changethe collar. You should stick to their standard shapes, but there are 40 different columns and six different pocket shapes.
This is the first thing I’ll try in PJ, I think, and I’ll cover it when it’s ready. There are a few other good things in the range, but I think these rare fabrics and having MTM materials are the most interesting things to check out.
Other good things include: many different styles of lightweight jackets – full length and three-quarter length, mostly in dark colors of waterproof synthetics; some belts have interchangeable belts (although rare versions of these are only available in Australia); and quality slippers and soft loafers.
A lot of knit styles didn’t work for me, whether they were made too low at the neck or had a low collar (as I always want that gathered collar style to work).
Finally, the elephant in the room: back whenwe first reviewed P Johnsonthere has been an uproar in the writings of Australian students who say the company has not been honest with them about where the sewing is done.
Now, I can’t comment with any credibility then or now, but the PJ store employees today are very open about things being made in China, and they make a point.I always agreed with him: that China and other Asian markets like Korea generally produce better products than Italy or Portugal. Focusing on the country of origin does not get you very far.
When we asked Patrick, he said: “We learned a lot during that time, especially about how we communicate our production story. It was never intended to mislead, but it pushed us to be more clear and transparent, which was a good thing. Our Pronto workshop, just south of Shanghai, is at the center of what we do, and the quality and value that comes out of there is exceptional.
“We also continue to produce in our Italian workshop in the south of Tuscany, although we sold our ownership in that business to a former partner during the last year. And our next project is in Korea, with this great innovation.”
I wish the PJ team all the best for their growth in London. It definitely brings freshness and a sense of fun to menswear here.
pjt.com
25-28 Old Burlington St, London