“Special things often require explanation. Because they are special, unusual, and unusual. Whether it’s through writing or photography or experimentation, they need that little explanation.”
I recently reunited with the guys at Stoffa after a few years of absence. I did so, in part, becausemy latest article in A Presseit reminded me that Stoffa is my favorite version of that brand.
Both create unique, unique products with custom fabrics. Fits and silhouettes aren’t always my thing, but I find the designer-led approach always appealing.
The difference with Stoffa is that in each collection there will always be one or two items that fit my style – and my particular wardrobe – in a way that is not possible with A Presse or other fashion brands. They stay close enough to the classic ideas of menswear.
Then the amazing thing is how different those pieces are – whether it’s the fabric, the design or the silhouette. Stoffa is a designer brand in that sense – at least today – and thus different from many we cover.
It helps that Stoffa always starts with the fabric, rather than the shape and silhouette ideas that designers usually start with. Custom fabric has always been part of Stoffa’s approach – it’s what the name implies.
Going back nine years towhen we first covered StoffaThe first piece I made was a pair of basketweave cotton pants (above). It felt completely different from what I was seeing from tailors or MTM brands – matte, washed and naturally dyed, beautiful yet comfortable.
Since then the range of fabrics has expanded significantly, and you can see them all listedfabric page here. There are also deep dives into themhere. Stoffa is expensive, but when you learn about the work that goes into that fabric (and appreciate it yourself) it’s hard not to see the value.
Unique fabrics mean unique fabrics, which means they won’t be yours. An example is the fig silk blouson, which I tried on recently (above). As Nick and Agyesh put it: “That was our most difficult piece of the season, the extreme version of the silhouette.”
It’s made of silk crepe made for summer shirts, meaning it’s light and airy. It is also made in a shirt workshop, which means fine needlework and finishing. Good, but certainly not for everyone.
The mistake I’ve always made with Stoffa over the years, I think, is looking at the brand as a whole and thinking I’m going to wear it all or nothing. It could be a sign for me, or it wasn’t.
I loved those basket-weave pants, and ended up having three pairs made in different colors. But that surprised mesuede flight jacketit didn’t work for me. I should have seen the difference – one was timeless, the other was casual, cropped and wide in the style I like in a jacket.
That’s the case with most designers I find – even the biggest fans won’t buy everything. Instead, they appreciate the breadth and freshness of new ideas, and they enjoy choosing what they buy from.
Perhaps the biggest difference between Stoffa and other fashion brands is that Stoffa is built to order, and many clothes still work on that foundation.
This means that if you like the silhouette of the coat but it is too short for you, you can add length. If you need one size in the body of the shirt but another in the collar, that can be done. You shouldn’t try and change the intended design (another mistake I’ve made in the past) but you can make the design work much better for your situation than for other products.
I may cover this in depth in a future article, as I know readers will want to know what current Stoffa pieces we recommend, and what we would rate or not.
Stoffa have always followed their own path, yet they feel more relevant today than ever. The world has turned to its muted colors and drapey silhouettes, and is placing greater value on its natural processes and focus on sustainability.
It makes perfect sense to me now that a student I know would want to get married in a Stoffa suit – in pale pistachio wool, with wide leg trousers and a knitted top. It feels like a modern version of beauty.
My problem has always been that I really liked the people and the product, but I didn’t know how to wear it with my own style. Seeing Stoffa as a designer I could pick and choose from – instead of a haberdasher to fill my every need – made a huge difference.
Quote used above: from Nick (Ragosta) at Stoffa, during our interview. It summed up for me why I sometimes struggled with their designs, but also the value PS gave in talking about them.