It has been almost 1,500 days since Russia invaded Ukraine and the scene in Kyiv is something out of a dystopian novel. Bells echo through the streets, warning those nearby of missile attacks, while a thick layer of smoke settles over the city. But despite all the physical, emotional and infrastructural challenges of wartime, one thing remains certain: The local fashion community is determined to find light in the midst of darkness.
In response to the ongoing airstrikes, the dates of the 58th Ukrainian Fashion Week season were moved out by a month. But for founder and CEO Iryna Danylevska, that was just a blip in the history of the event’s legacy and more than 40 established brands. Beyond the air shows, the schedule also includes a trade show (fourth annual), educational programs and a charity initiative as part of the Faces of Heroes project, which helps raise funds to support reconstructive surgery for veterans.
“[Fall 2026] it will not be remembered for its reorganized days and the challenging conditions in which the collections were made,” explains Danylevska. “It will be remembered for the unwavering belief in what we stand for.”
Image: Serhiy Khandus
According to designers like Nadya Dyzak, Kyiv lives in two things at once. “On the other hand, it is a city that continues to live, work, create and bring people together through culture,” explained Dyzak. “On the other hand, it’s a city that has a daily alarm of airstrikes, the threat of attacks and a sense of fragility.” Unfortunately, this has become the new trend for many, including Dyzak, whose factory, once a bank, sits near the prime location in Dnipro. When the sirens started going off, he and his team retreated to an armored room that used to be a basement, where they waited until the alarms stopped and continued working on the new batch.
“Sometimes I think that the whole area must have known something when, years ago, we moved into this building,” he said. This optimism is one of the main commonalities among creators in Ukraine, and can often be found in their designs.
Litkovska’s new collection, aptly named “A collection about light that refuses to die,” is a prime example. Drawing on designer Lillia Litkovska’s home environment, it explores this idea of persistence under pressure while reimagining traditionally important items like the Ukrainian “Besahy” – a double-sided bag historically used on long journeys and trips to the market – for the modern traveller.
Image: Hosted by Litovska
“There are nights with no electricity, no heating, no water,” Litkovsa said of the worst conditions in her shopping area. “People walk around the city wearing small lights on their heads. From a distance, the streets look like the sky has fallen to earth – scattered with small moving stars, fireflies.” His idea took the form of a functional pair of lug-sole boots and headlamps similar to those of the neighbors. The brand even tapped local avant-garde perfumer Evgeniy Lazarchuk to create a scent inspired by Kyiv.
The sense of community and shared knowledge of Ukrainian Fashion Week are some of the reasons why Darja Donezz, whose name is best known for the modern, artistic trends, said that not participating would feel “almost impossible.” The exhibition in Kyiv is also not discussed by the founders of Kris Maran – Anna, Kristina and Maria Stelmakh.
Image: Hosted by Kris Maran
“Life goes on, but with a greater awareness of weakness, and that forms an old emotional base against him,” says Kristina Stelmakh. “Presenting during the Ukrainian Fashion Week was important for us precisely because of that fact. The brand was founded here, and all the pieces are produced on our premises. [Ukrainian] a merchant. One tailor leads each garment from start to finish, which not only gives us a high level of quality and artistic integrity, but also a direct, human connection to the work. Living here and continuing to create here is part of our language.”
But for some designers, presenting locally was not an option: Litkovska held her first runway show in Paris for logistical reasons, while Bevza skipped fashion month entirely, choosing to show her latest collection digitally – partly because Founder and Creative Director Svitlana Bevza is currently expecting her third child.
Image: Hosted by Bevza
Bevza faced supply chain challenges; the diversity of its product range has led them to produce abroad, although most of their collections are made in Ukraine.
Physical limitations aside, designers encounter intangible challenges, too, including constant mental and emotional exhaustion. “We live in a state of constant vigilance, where you have to stay focused, smart and responsible while always going to shelters during air raids,” Dyzak said. “Long-term planning becomes more difficult when so much can change overnight, yet we still need to produce batches at a high level, work with international partners, meet deadlines and support our teams.”
This is particularly difficult for the jewelry brand Grains de Verre, as many of its pieces require very specific materials and hand-made methods. “Maintaining that level of craftsmanship can be a challenge especially when access to materials and supplies is unstable,” says founder, Rita Molchanova. But what the rest of the world doesn’t see is how much inner strength it takes to persevere, especially as a freelance designer.
Image: Hosted by Grains de Verre
Running a fashion brand is hard enough as it is. Studies show that more than 80% of new labels fail within the first two to five years, while only about 3% survive. The challenges of international conflict, supply chain disruptions, power outages and sub-freezing temperatures only make things more difficult.
In these trying times, it’s amazing how Ukrainian designers can not only keep working, but also stay inspired. Their advice to the wider fashion community?
Stelmakh suggests “limiting scale, not purpose” and using more accessible materials. Dyzak recommends not to force yourself: “Sometimes it’s important to allow yourself to pause, to feel peace, tiredness or uncertainty; true ideas always come back when you stay true to yourself,” he says.
Image: Volodymyr Bosak/Courtesy of Darja Donezz
“Every creative person goes through times when inspiration feels distant,” adds Bevza. “What helps me is to remember why I started designing in the first place. Sometimes the most powerful ideas come from difficult times. Instead of trying to run away from reality, I think it would be more honest to respond to it through your work.”
At the end of the week, it became apparent that, despite the difficulties, the Ukrainian fashion community chose to live in the moment while pressing on, even if that means not knowing what challenges the next day will bring. And such patience fuels their creativity, which inevitably shines through in each collection.
“Sometimes you have to push yourself to keep thinking about beauty,” concludes Donezz. “But when something beautiful is created, it brings back strength, hope and a sense of meaning. In a way, creating beauty becomes a silent form of resistance.”
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