The options are often a mix of recycling old fabrics that are worn out (or maybe ruined by some lost sauce) and new ideas from seeing shirts from others, from brands, and new designs offered by clothing mills.
I thought it would be interesting to pass on what I’ve done over the past year, to discuss some of those new ideas and explain the kind of basics I’m remaking.
I use Simone Abbarchi’s MTM for most of them, by the way, although I usually make my buttons with Luca Avitabile as I like his collar roll a lot, especially on oxfords. I use D’Avino mostly for special shirts, or for splashing on the outside.
1: Lilac oxford test
This was a new idea – I love the lilac colored shirts that Ralph Lauren Purple Label makes, often mixed with gray and navy suits, and I want to try one. I found that it works very similar to the pink shirts I wear a lot, but a little more casual and maybe a little preppy.
I used one of the best oxfords from Thomas Mason, though mostly because the color was right rather than because of the quality. (The word ‘quality’ is used in the industrial sense here, such as a specific thread, cut and finish, so everything except color and pattern.)
Shown here withmy gray Assisi double-breasted suit,and it was shown onTrunk suit review. Fabric iFM33854 / 81B, ‘Cambridge’.
2:White linen base
This shirt is the opposite – I wear white linen shirts in the summer so much, sometimes 3-4 times a week, that I often need a new one when the warmer weather arrives. (Not that a shirt only lasts one year, but one of the three or four I own will need to be replaced.)
My dark, muted wardrobe usually benefits from a crisp white shirt more than anything else, and I’m cold enough to find that it looks good against the skin.
This is also worn by mesilk coat from Pirozziand a pair of gray tweed pants. The fabric is a fine linen from D&J Anderson, FM40650 / 1.
3:Trying for blue skies
I think there is a tendency among men to stick to certain shades of colors – because they think that all shades will work in the same way. I used to order the same shade of green shirt for that reason, until theninterview with Aleks CvetkovicI found an interest in paler, sky blues.
In fact, ‘ice blue’ is probably a better word – which boils down to the fact that this is a noticeably paler blue than usual, about halfway between that and white. It goes with many of the same things as white, but it’s different and tends to be easier on those with lighter skin. It also looks a touch smarter.
Worn here withmy cashmere blazer from Steven Hitchcock. The fabric is a very nice 240 poplin from Thomas Mason, FM404205/11. (Actually they are all Thomas Mason – they are outstanding these days.)
4:Linen chambray
This linen chambray was oneLucaswhich I did when I had a meeting with Luca Avitabile, and I really liked it. Like most commissions, it’s pretty easy once you see it done.
Most chamrays are cotton, and linen is a great option for summer. This one has the most delightful slubbiness.
Shown here in a navy-seersucker suit from Jean-Manuel Moreau – replacing my old one by Dalcuore, which was too small. Fabric FM301233 / 130 ‘Alassio’.
5:Beige line for a reason
This was the first shirt I had in a pale beige line, and it was driven by a certain need: I wear a lot of black or very dark tailoring, and I wanted something that would not be too strong with those bright white pieces, but also subtle enough to go with almost everything.
The beige line proved to be a good solution. The line is so subtle that it’s almost a texture, so it’s very versatile. It’s not plain though, so it adds interest when the suit and tie are both plain – as shown in the picture.
Suit iMy Art du Lin linen from Pirozziand trousers from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The fabric is Journey Twill from TM, FM412123 / 21. Although like the lilac oxford, it was chosen for color rather than quality.
6:Normal shadow line
This was to replace a shirt that was about six years old and was starting to look good (not in the good, Ivy-frayed collar way). I really like shadow stripes like this (where the color is wider than white) and I wear it a lot with denim.
I didn’t have the right jacket that dayAlexI was in the office shooting, so I borrowed a blazer from Carl at Rubato. This is her DB with gold buttons from Tailor – please ask everyone!
The fabric is a cotton/linen blend, which I highly recommend as a smart summer shirt if you don’t like the wrinkle of linen. ‘Zephyr 170’ from Thomas Mason, FM40462/ 13.
7:Cozy winter flannel
It’s not your season right now, but a cotton blend shirt like this is a lovely thing to wear in winter. I have been feeling colder than that, and winter is very good for the skin.
I used to wear a lot of grays in brushed cotton – likethis one was seen years ago– but I find something with a little check very interesting, and bright colors are easy to wear. I find a small check makes it look good with the blacks too, as does the beige stripe.
The jacket is my Pirozzi silk again, with gray trousers and Meyrowitz ‘Californian’ sunglasses. The fabric is ‘Balmoral’ FM69809/40.